The Enoshima Electric Railway (“Enoden” for short) runs through Kanagawa Prefecture, from the traditional city of Kamakura to the island of Enoshima, with Fujisawa as the last stop. Designed with a vintage flair, its train cars are beloved icons that add a nostalgic flavor to Kamakura and Enoshima’s easy atmosphere.
Visitors to the area can avail of Noriori-kun, a pass that allows the ticket holder to get on and off all the stations of Enoden for as many times as they want within a period of a one day. All stations have ticket machines that sell the pass.
Date of Trip: May 27, 2017
When we both went on this trip, Yui and I had not seen each other for months, the last time being my birthday party in January. Our Enoden travel made a very pleasant catch-up trip.
The terminal stations (Kamakura and Fujisawa) are about the same distance from our respective houses. We chose to start at Kamakura so that we could end the day with a seaside view.
Dandelion Chocolate Kamakura Branch
Business Hours: 08:00 – 20:00
From chocolate bars to pastries, this cafe is chocolate heaven. It has two floors and is a good spot to chat with friends, bring your date or just catch up on some reading. Their hot cocoa comes in different variations, spiced with exciting flavors. They also come with a complimentary mini cookie, and you can even ask the staff to add a marshmallow. Mmm, a delicious cup of cocoa is a good way to start the day.
After warming our tummies, we headed to Kamakura’s popular shopping street. Lined with curious and charming shops, Komachi Dōri is a good spot for buying souvenirs or just window shopping.
As we looked around, we found a Ghibli novelty shop, which, to my surprise, had Calcifer goods! As a big fan of Howl’s Moving Castle (both the novels and the animated film), this was a pleasant surprise.
We also found a shop that specializes in kanzashi hair pins. These traditional hair accessories are often paired with a kimono or a yukata. The shop we went to had Sailor Moon-themed ones, which didn’t really scream Sailor Moon, but were pretty nonetheless.
08:00 – 17:30 (April to September)
08:00 – 17:00 (October to March)
Adult: JPY 200
Child: JPY 150
Most often, when people think of Kamakura, they conjure up the image of the daibutsu or the giant Buddha. This enormous statue can be found at Kōtoku-in. For an extra JPY 20, guests can also see the inside of the statue.
The temple is also adorned with a pair of humongous straw slippers, made for the giant Buddha. Every three years, they are replaced with new ones coming all the way from Ibaraki Prefecture. If you ask me, however, these slippers are disproportional to the size of the statue. Unless, of course, Buddha’s got really tiny feet.
Speaking of slippers, we found a stall selling fish sandals on our way to Kōtoku-in. They’re… odd. I was so amused I posted the picture I took on Instagram, thinking only an oddball would buy such slippers. A few minutes after I’ve posted the photo, my friend Chihiro texted me with a photo of the pair he owns. I guess I have a knack for choosing peculiar people as friends.
Kamakura Museum of Literature
09:00 – 17:00 (March to September)
09:00 – 16:30 (October to February)
Entrance Fee (Depends on Exhibit):
Adult: JPY 300-400
Child: JPY 100-200
Previously owned by a noble family, this gorgeous mansion has been transformed into a museum that celebrates the works of Japanese writers. More than the museum itself, however, the place is well-loved for its gorgeous rose garden, which attracts plenty of visitors in May.
Kamakura Kōkōmae Crossing
This one’s for geeks like me. If you watched anime in the 90s, you’ve probably heard of the basketball anime called Slam Dunk. Yes, the one that takes up a whole episode just for the ball to enter the damn hoop. The series was set in Kamakura High School, which is why the opening credits show Enoden’s Kamakura Kōkōmae Station. It’s a popular photo spot, so expect (Asian) tourists hanging around in the area.
The thrill of being in a seaside city erupts the moment you get off at Enoshima Station. The rigidness of Tokyo melts away and is replaced by a laid-back atmosphere. The streets are lined with shops that have a delightful retro appeal, and the people walk at a leisurely pace.
Enoshima alone could take a whole day of exploring , but for an Enoden trip, it’s best to limit your itinerary to a few places.
Enoshima Shrine is the collective name of three shrines located in the island of Enoshima. Dedicated to Benzaiten, people visit the shrine to pray for love and safety.
Samuel Cocking Garden
Business Hours: 09:00 – 18:00
Entrance Fee (Combined ticket with Sea Candle):
This cozy botanical garden was named after an Irish merchant who came to Japan in 1869. When Yui and I dropped by, the garden’s roses were in full bloom. Unsurprisingly, we spotted a lot of couples around the area. Yui’s expression below pretty much sums up how we felt.
Enoshima Sea Candle
Business Hours: 09:00 – 18:00
Entrance Fee (Combined ticket with Samuel Cocking Garden):
We ended our trip with a visit to Sea Candle, a tower that offers visitors a panoramic view of the sea surrounding the island. Watching the sunset from the tower was the perfect way to end our Enoden day trip. We went home to Tokyo with smiles on our faces and a handful of happy memories.