One of the most prized views in Iwate can be seen while riding a traditional wooden boat down the Satetsu River. Geibikei Gorge, with its towering limestone cliffs and exceptional seasonal views, is among the 100 Landscapes of Japan, a title bestowed to places considered to be the most breathtaking. Here’s what you need to know to plan your visit.
Why it’s Called “Geibikei”
Any name of a place in Japan that ends with the suffix -kei usually refers to a valley or a gorge, as signified by the character “渓.” The characters for “Geibi” (猊鼻), on the other hand, mean “lion’s snout.” The name comes from a limestone formation that marks the turnaround point for boats cruising the gorge.
Up until the Meiji era (1868 to 1912), Geibikei’s existence was a secret known to a few, to the point that even local villagers did not know about it. It was hidden from maps and records, reportedly because people did not want the burden of entertaining clan officials when they visit. Boating was a pastime for Japan’s privileged class in olden times, and since they did not row boats by themselves, servants often had to attend to them while they feast and gaze at their surroundings.
Some time in the Meiji era, a local named Sato Geigan started strengthening tourism in the area. In 1897, he, along with other local volunteers, gave the gorge its name. Interestingly, the characters for his name “Geigan” also stand for “lion” and “rock.” It makes me wonder as to whether he named it Geibikei because the rock formation really looked like a lion’s snout to him, or whether he just wanted to fashion it after his name. Unfortunately, I couldn’t dig up other records on what he and what his life was like.
Geibikei Gorge River Cruise
The Geibikei river cruise is a 90-minute-long boat ride, with a short stop at the turnaround point where people can alight and take a stroll for 20 minutes or so. There are around four boats operating back and forth, each with a designated departure and return time. Make sure to check the departure times on the official website prior to visiting, as this is subject to change. Depending on the season, the last boat may sail as early as 3 PM.
Once you buy a ticket, you can wait for your departure time. You will be then asked to line up for boarding. There are square cushion seats that mark the places on the boat where you can sit. Once everyone is seated, staff selling snacks and drinks will come to the boat. There are no shops at the turnaround point and you will be sailing for 90 minutes. If you feel like you might get hungry or thirsty along the way, this would be your last chance to buy anything. Eating and drinking is allowed on board; littering obviously isn’t.
After the food sellers leave, the cruise begins. Only one boatman per boat is present on the ride. He guides the boat to its destination with a long stick, wading through calm waters and pushing on rocks. Along the way, he highlights points of interest—curious rock formations, gushing springs, and even a shrine to Bishamonten with an offering box in the middle of nowhere. When I joined the cruise, some guests tried to toss coins from the boat, no one was able to get one in.
At the furthest point of the route, you will find a sandbar where the boat will stop for a 20 to 30-minute break. The boatman will announce the return time here, so make sure to listen for it. When I was on the cruise, we weren’t allowed to join a different boat on the way back. Perhaps it was because it was peak season and the boats were at max capacity. If you don’t join the boat you came with, there’s a chance you won’t get a seat in the others.
Test Your Luck
There’s only a little to explore at the sandbar but enough to keep you entertained. There’s a lovely bridge where you can take photos, a shrine where you can hang prayer plaques, and a stall where you can buy wish stones for un-dameshi.
“Un-dameshi” literally means “to test your luck.” For 100 yen, you can choose five wish stones. Each wish stone has a single kanji character on it, representing an area of life that you may wish to improve: health, love, etc. The aim is to get to get any of these wish stones into a small crevice on a limestone wall. If you manage to get it in, your wish will come true.
Boatman’s Song
On the way back, you can enjoy the view quietly or feed the ducks and fish that come close to the boat. (You can buy feed at the sandbar or at the docks before you board). The climax of the return trip is when the boatman sings “Geibi Oiwake,” a folk song about the gorge. Given that these boatmen make the boats that they steer, tell funny stories, and sing on top of everything, I’d say they’re multi-talented!
Seasonal Views and Events
Spring: There’s a cherry blossom tree that blooms around late April near the dock where boats depart. Wisteria blooms can also be found on one section of the route around mid-May.
Summer: See the gorge covered in verdant green. Some boats may offer tea ceremony events.
Autumn: Perhaps one of the most popular times to cruise, you’ll see beautiful fall colors during this season. Tea events may be available during this period, too.
Winter: Warm your legs under a kotatsu (heated table), have hotpot and kamameshi while gazing at the snow-covered limestone cliffs of Geibikei.
Other information: The boats do private charters for large groups as well as events like weddings. Leashed pets can board for an additional fee of ¥200, but are not allowed on yakatabune-type boats (houseboats with roofs). Wheelchair-friendly boats are also available.
Geibikei Gorge Autmn Boat Ride Video
Not to be confused with Genbikei
Iwate has two famous gorges that sound alike: Geibikei and Genbikei. Genbikei is known for its flying dango, as well as a fall foliage walking spot.
Recommended Itinerary
You can visit the two gorges in one day if you start your day early. My itinerary was as follows:
08:00 Arrive at Ichinoseki Station
08:10 Take the bus to Genbikei
08:31 Arrive at Genbikei, take a stroll while waiting for the store to open
09:00 Line up to get flying dango (the store may open later than advertised)
10:00 Ride the bus to Ichinoseki Station
11:00 Lunch at Fujisei (Try various dango dishes from different prefectures in Japan)
12:46 Take the train to Geibikei
13:25 Arrive at Geibikei, buy tickets
14:00 River cruise
15:30 Snack on grilled ayu (sweetfish) before hopping on the train back to Ichinoseki Station
How to Get to Geibikei
Geibikei (猊鼻渓, げいびけい)
08:30 to 15:00
Official Website
7-minute walk from Geibikei Station, JR Ofunato Line
Admission Fee: ¥1,800 (adult), ¥900 (child), ¥200 (infant)
