Are you looking for an easy day hike from Tokyo with spectacular views? Kachi Kachi Yama (also known as Tenjoyama) has an easy slope that takes you to see hydrangeas, fall foliage, and fantastic views of Mt. Fuji. It’s the site of a popular Japanese folktale, too!
Hiking Course Overview
Mountain: Tenjoyama (also known as Kachi Kachi)
Trail: Hydrangea Road
Difficulty Level: Beginner
Average Hiking Time: 4 Hours (2 hours with ropeway)
Best Season: July & Aug for hydrangeas; November for fall foliage
Fare: ¥4,320 round-trip if you take the highway bus
Kachi Kachi Yama: The Gruesome Japanese Folktale
When you climb Tenjoyama using the Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway, you’ll see a number of rabbit and raccoon statues along the way. They may look cute, but the Japanese folktale behind them is rather dark.
The story involves a tanuki, a mythical Japanese forest spirit similar to raccoons, who was wreaking havoc in a farmer’s field. The farmer caught it and tied it to a tree, with the intention of cooking it later. He then left for town, leaving only his wife with the tanuki.
The tanuki pleaded and begged the wife for his life. Taking pity, the wife then cut the tanuki loose. Alas, it was a trick, and the wife ended up dying in the hands of the tanuki. Vengeful as it was, the tanuki also sought revenge by shapeshifting as the farmer’s wife and serving him soup made from his wife’s flesh. Once the farmer had come home and began eating, the tanuki then turned back to its original form and called the farmer a fool for eating his own wife. It then ran away, leaving the poor farmer distraught.
Now the farmer and his wife had been friends with a rabbit who lived near them, and after the unfortunate turn of events, the farmer sought help from the rabbit to help avenge his wife. The rabbit agreed and went on his way to find the tanuki.
Soon enough they met, but the rabbit didn’t exact vengeance right away. Instead, it played a series of painful tricks on the tanuki. The most memorable one is when the tanuki gathered kindling for a campfire and carried the sticks on its back and the rabbit set it on fire. The tanuki could hear the sound of fire crackling (kachi kachi in Japanese onomatopoeia), but the rabbit insisted there was nothing to worry about. The fire then reached the tanuki’s back, burning it badly.
The tanuki and the rabbit’s final showdown came in the form of a boat race. The rabbit challenged the tanuki to see who was better. While the rabbit made its boat out of wood, the tanuki built its boat out of mud. During the race, the tanuki’s boat started sinking, and that’s when the rabbit revealed his true purpose, struck the tanuki with an oar and left it for dead.
Tenjoyama is said to have been the setting for this tale, which is where it gets its nickname “Kachi Kachi Yama” from. This is also why you will find a rabbit shrine at the top, to commemorate the rabbit in the tale.
Kachi Kachi: Ajisai Route Hiking Trail
The peak of Mt. Kachi Kachi is accessible by ropeway (Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway). In fact, many people opt to use this as it is one of the attractions in Kawaguchi and is often included in bus tour itineraries. However, if exercise is what you’re after, then taking the Ajisai Route will give you a moderate workout.
For beginners, hiking books recommend that you take the ropeway up and then hike the way down. I like doing the opposite because my fear of falling down kicks in whenever I have to descend (I fell down a flight of stairs as a kid). Here’s the trail that I followed.
Trail Head
From Kawaguchi Station, take the bus heading to Kofu Station Bus Terminal and get off at Ropeway-iriguchi. You will see the trailhead to the left of Kawaguchiko Cheesecake Garden. There’s a big sign saying “楽遊” (Rakuyu) which refers to the hotel and a smaller wooden sign saying “河口湖天上山 アジサイハイキングコース” (Kawaguchiko Tenjoyama Ajisai Hiking Course). Follow the asphalt incline. You will eventually reach a fork in the road. Turn right or follow the signs that point to Rakuyu.
Tenjoyama Gokoku Shrine
Eventually, you will see a shrine. If you need a restroom stop, this is where you go. There are also hydrangeas here if you visit around mid-July to August.
Hydrangea Route
To the right of the shrine you will find stairs made of wooden logs. This is the actual Hydrangea Route, where a hundred thousand hydrangeas or ajisai bloom from mid-July to early August. The area is unfortunately not on Google maps, but is easy to follow. Unlike the straight line shown in the custom Google Maps above, though, the route is a winding dirt road.
Nakabadaira Observation Area
As you follow the path you will stumble upon a clearing with benches. Mt. Fuji looks imposing from this viewpoint; relax and take in the view. If you brought snacks with you, this will be a good time to dig in. You still have around halfway to go before reaching the peak.
Kawaguchiko Tenjozan Park
You’ll know you are close to the summit when you start hearing the ropeway chime. Tenjozan Park is a very touristy area so this place can get crowded depending on the season. Head to Tanuki Chaya for snacks and enjoy the views and attractions. To descend, you can either go back the way you came or take the ropeway for a scenic view of Lake Kawaguchi. The ropeway ticket costs ¥500 one-way, which you can purchase as you board.
Kawaguchiko Tenjozan Park Attractions
Rabbit Shrine
A shrine dedicated to the rabbit that helped the farmer in the Japanese folktale. You can get a fortune slip for 100 yen, and hang prayer plaques for your wishes. The prayer plaques are available in the goods shop.
Tenjo Bell
A bell that frames Mt. Fuji. Bells are popular attractions in Japan and are often said to bring luck and happiness when you ring them.
Kawarake Plate Throwing
Kawarake are clay ceramics that you can throw in this area of the park. You get 2 pcs for ¥100. You throw it once to get rid of bad fortune. If you get the second plate to go inside the loop, you’ll be blessed with good relations.
Kachi Kachi Scenic Swing
Swing to your heart’s content with Mt. Fuji in sight.
Weekdays: 10:00 to 14:00
Weekends & Holidays: 10:00 to 11:30, 13:00 to 14:00
Cost: ¥500 per person
Restrictions: Height – 110 cm and above, Weight – below 100 kg
Where to Eat
Tanuki Chaya
Need an energy boost? Tanuki Chaya has light snacks that can fill you up. Get the ice cream with bunny-shaped topping or get dango dumplings with a tanuki design. To purchase, just buy tickets from the vending machine at the storefront and hand them to a staff. Light snacks are under a hundred yen.
Hoto Fudokawa
Hoto noodles are a local specialty in Yamanashi. Thick and chewy, these noodles usually come with vegetables and mushrooms in a slightly sweet broth. Hoto Fudokawa is among the most popular restaurants that serve hoto noodles. It is conveniently located across from Kawaguchiko Station.
Other Attractions
Fujiyama Cookie
Located at the base of Fuji Panoramic Ropeway, Fujiyama Cookie sells cookies in the shape of Mt. Fuji. They come in different colors and flavors and are ideal souvenirs.
Hotel Mifujien Hot Spring
Nothing beats a good soak after a long hike. Fujimien is a natural hot spring that has indoor and outdoor baths. You can even see Mt. Fuji as you take a dip. They accept drop-in customers from 13:00 to 18:00 at ¥1,200.
Ensoleille Sightseeing Boat
The boarding point for this sightseeing boat is a just a 2-minute walk from the ropeway station. The 20-minute Lake Kawaguchi cruise is easy to fit in your itinerary. The fare is ¥1,000 per adult.
Hiking Video
How to Get to Kachi Kachi from Tokyo
By Bus
Travel Time: 2 Hours
Fare: ¥2,000 one-way
At around ¥2,000 one-way, Buses are the cheapest option to get to Kawaguchiko. Reservations are required to board highway buses departing from Shinjuku. You can use Highway-buses.jp for English reservations which is operated by Keio Dentetsu. Alternatively, you may find more options on Bus Hikaku Navi which shows several bus companies that depart from different stations in Tokyo. Bus Hikaku Navi is only available in Japanese.
Once at Kawaguchiko Station, you can either walk for 10 minutes to get to the trail head or get on the bus heading to Kofu Station and get off at Ropeway-iriguchi.
By Train
Travel Time: 2-3 Hours
Fare: ¥2,000 to 4,000 one-way
There are several lines stopping at Kawaguchiko Station. If you want to get to Kawaguchiko Station quickly with guaranteed seats and no transfers, take the Fuji Excusion Express for ¥4,060.
Alternatively, you can take the Limited Express Azusa or Kaiji to Otsuki Station and transfer to Fujikyuko line to get to Kawaguchiko Station. The travel time is around 2 hours and 20 minutes for ¥3,930.
The last option is to board the Keio Line from Shinjuku then transfer to JR Chuo Main Line at Takao Station. You then transfer to the Fujikyuko Line at Otsuki Station to get to Kawaguchiko Station. The travel time is around 3 hours at ¥2,510).
Kawaguchiko Travel Tips
Personally, I find that getting to Kawaguchiko by bus is the cheapest and fastest option in the morning. But because roads tend to get congested at night, using the trains would be much quicker. I got stuck on the bus for four hours on the way home because of traffic, so I would recommend spending a bit more on your way back.
