The Untold Stories of Mt. Iimori: Aizu’s Byakkotai, Sazaedo, and Beyond

Landscapes carry memories. Some wear their histories lightly; others are saturated with narrative. Mt. Iimor (Iimoriyama) belongs to the latter category. Here, the story of the Byakkotai—teenage samurai who chose ritualistic suicide over surrender—is etched into the terrain. Part battlefield, part shrine, part testament to Japan’s radical transformation, Mt. Iimori offers visitors a tranquil space for profound reflection.

Aizu’s Mt. Iimori: A Historical Overview

The Byakkotai: A Tragic Tale of Young Samurai

The Byakkotai, or White Tiger Corps, represented the desperate last line of defense for the Aizu domain during the tumultuous Boshin War of 1868-1869. Comprised of 20 teenage boys aged between 16 and 17, these young samurai embodied the ultimate expression of loyalty and sacrifice in a time of profound social upheaval. Recruited from samurai families in the Aizu region, they were trained not just in martial arts, but in the strict code of bushido that demanded absolute devotion to their domain and lord.

During the siege of Wakamatsu Castle, these young warriors found themselves in an impossible situation. As imperial forces closed in and their stronghold seemed lost, 19 of these boys chose a path that would become legendary. On the slopes of Mt. Iimori, they performed ritual seppuku—a form of suicide that was considered the most honorable way to face defeat for a samurai.

The Sole Survivor: Iinuma Sadakichi’s Extraordinary Journey

Among the 20 Byakkotai members, one boy survived to bear witness to their extraordinary story—Iinuma Sadakichi. Born in 1854, Sadakichi had boldly lied about his age to join the Byakkotai, a reserve unit of teenage samurai. During the siege of Tsuruga Castle, when he and his 19 comrades mistakenly believed their domain had fallen, they attempted ritual suicide on Mount Iimori.

Unlike his fellow soldiers, Sadakichi’s suicide attempt failed. A local peasant woman discovered and rescued the young warrior, saving his life against all odds. This twist of fate would preserve a crucial piece of historical memory.

After the war, Iinuma Sadakichi refused to be defined by his survival. He moved to Sendai and built a productive life, serving as an army officer and postal official. Notably, he became an important figure in Japan’s emerging telecommunications network during the Meiji era. He was particularly reluctant to share his story immediately, only speaking about the Byakkotai’s tragic day when tensions from the Boshin War had sufficiently subsided.

In a powerful gesture of loyalty and remembrance, Iinuma’s life came full circle upon his death in 1931 at age 78. His ashes were scattered on Mount Iimori alongside the graves of his fallen comrades, symbolizing an eternal connection to the legacy he had survived.

The Fall of Aizu

The Boshin War represented a critical turning point in Japanese history, marking the violent transition from the feudal Tokugawa shogunate to the modernizing Meiji era. The Aizu domain, known for its conservative samurai culture and unwavering loyalty to the old order, found itself on the losing side of this transformative conflict.

The war was essentially a fundamental clash between traditional feudal systems and the emerging modern state. The imperial forces, representing a new vision of Japan, systematically defeated domains that resisted centralization. Aizu, with its strong samurai traditions, became a symbolic last stand of the old world.

The defeat presented the dismantling of an entire social structure, the erosion of samurai privileges, and the forced adaptation to a rapidly modernizing society. The Byakkotai became a powerful symbol of this transition—young warriors caught between a dying tradition and an uncertain future, choosing death over compromise.

Legacy and Remembrance

Today, Mount Iimori stands as a living memorial. The mountain features graves of the 19 Byakkotai members who died, along with monuments from Italy and Germany honoring their loyalty. Museums dedicated to preserving their memory offer visitors a chance to reflect on this pivotal moment in Japanese history.

Visitors can ascend the mountain via 183 steps or a travelator, experiencing the same panoramic view of Aizu Wakamatsu that the young samurai saw over 150 years ago. The site is a powerful reminder of a generation caught between tradition and transformation, where individual lives became symbols of a nation’s dramatic metamorphosis.

Ajisai Hiking Trail

Mt. Iimori offers a serene hiking experience that combines seasonal beauty and historical significance. In mid-June, the trail transforms with vibrant hydrangea blooms, creating a colorful path perfect for nature enthusiasts.

The 2-3 hour hike begins near Iimori Shrine, winding past the Byakkotai memorials and leading to panoramic views of Aizu-Wakamatsu. The hydrangea-lined paths add a tranquil charm, making this trail a must-visit during the blooming season.

• Best Time to Visit: Mid-June to early July for hydrangeas.
• Trail Difficulty: Beginner to Intermediate.

Video

Mt. Iimori is featured in this video about Aizu Wakamatsu. The segment starts at 2:10.

How to Get to Mt. Iimori

By Train & Bus

Start by taking the shinkansen to Koriyama Station, then transfer to the JR Ban’etsu West Line, which will bring you to Aizu-Wakamatsu Station in about 80 minutes. From Aizu-Wakamatsu Station, you can take a bus bound for Iimoriyama Iriguchi, a 10-minute ride, or opt for a taxi, which takes around 5 to 7 minutes. If you prefer to stretch your legs, the mountain is also accessible on foot, with a pleasant 30-minute walk from the station.

By Car

take the Tohoku Expressway and exit at Aizu-Wakamatsu IC. From there, it’s a 15-minute drive along local roads to Mt. Iimori. Parking is available near the base, close to the starting points for the trails and the Byakkotai memorials. No matter your mode of transportation, Mt. Iimori is easy to reach, making it an ideal destination for a day trip or part of a longer visit to Aizu-Wakamatsu