Otori Shrine & its Giant Smiling Statue: A Curious Shrine in Asakusa

Asakusa is known for its remarkable temples like Sensoji, the oldest temple in Tokyo, and Imado Shrine, the love shrine that also happens to be full of lucky cats. Among these lies a lesser-known but well-loved shrine that stands out for its curious and captivating worship practice. At the heart of this shrine, an altar awaits adorned with a magnificent sight—a giant statue of a face, beaming with a radiant smile full of joy. This unusual and joyous spectacle piques the curiosity of visitors, beckoning them to explore further into the depths of Otori Shrine’s fascinating traditions. Want to find out more? Read on.

Overview

Tucked away in the northern part of Asakusa, Otori Shrine’s origins remain enigmatic. However, it is widely acknowledged to enshrine two key deities: Ame-no-Hiwashi-no-Mikoto and Yamato Takeru-no-Mikoto. Ame-no-Hiwashi, known as a god who pioneered new lands and brought prosperity, played an instrumental role in the famed tale of the sun goddess, Amaterasu. Ame-no-Hiwashi was among the gods who were coaxing Amaterasu to come out of the cave she shut herself in. According to legend, an eagle landed on the string of an instrument he was playing, which marked a good omen. Curious of all the commotion, Amaterasu eventually came out of the cave, making Ame-no-Hiwashi’s good omen come to pass.

The kanji for otori (鷲) stands for eagle, signifying its ties to Ame-no-Hiwashi. Because of this, some of the shrine’s charms and votive plaques include eagle designs.

Nade Okame: Otori Shrine’s Smiling Charm

One of the most curious sights you’ll stumble upon is the Nade Okame. Located dead center of the shrine’s main hall, this intriguing sculpture depicts a woman with pinchable cheeks and a beaming smile, as if she’s privy to some secret you’re yet to discover.

But who exactly is she? If you’ve ever been to a Japanese festival, you might recognize her cheerful face. Okame is a popular figure in Japanese folklore and is frequently seen as masks during celebrations. Characterized by her puffy cheeks and lips curled into an irrepressible grin, she’s the epitome of joy and mirth. The term kame in her name hints at the shape of an “earthenware pot” or “jar” – a nod to the jar-like roundness of her face. Additionally, Okame often answers to another moniker, “Otafuku,” translating to “plenty of good fortune.” Due to her association with abundance and positivity, you will also often see her as an ornament at different establishments in Japan.

The sculpture at Otori Shrine is called Nade Okame, with nade meaning “touch.” For that, visitors are encouraged to touch the statue for good luck. Depending on where you touch Nade Okame, you’ll be blessed with a specific type of fortune:

• Forehead: A touch here invokes wisdom. Perfect for those life-altering decisions!
• Eyes: Seeking clarity and foresight? Give her eyes a gentle pat.
• Nose: Hoping for some financial windfall? Her nose knows the way to riches.
• Right Cheek (to your right when facing the statue): If you’re hunting for that special someone or wishing to strengthen existing relationships, touch her right cheek.
• Left Cheek (to your left when facing the statue): For an overall health boost, her left cheek’s the spot.
• Mouth: In hopes of warding off misfortunes and disasters, touch her smiling mouth.

And for those seeking overall harmony and balance in their lives, begin at her chin and move your hand clockwise. By doing this, it’s said that things will align in your favor, helping life settle into a peaceful rhythm.

Festivals

Otori Shrine, with its fascinating history and alluring artifacts, isn’t just a hub for curious travelers. It also plays host to a myriad of festivals that invite both locals and visitors to partake in its vibrant traditions. Here’s a peek into the lively celebrations that light up the precincts of Otori Shrine:

Tori-no-Ichi – The Rake Festival

The crowning jewel among Otori Shrine’s festivals, Tori-no-Ichi, is a bustling fair celebrated in November. This annual affair held on the Rooster Days (as per the Chinese zodiac), attracts people from all corners. And why, you ask? As the clock strikes midnight and the drum’s first beat reverberates through the shrine, attendees eagerly line up to receive the famed rake-shaped talismans, also known as kumade. These aren’t just decorative pieces but symbolize the “raking in” of wealth and good fortune. So, for those looking to amplify their business prosperity, clutching one of these talismans is considered auspicious.

Hatsumode – Ringing in the New Year

As the old year wanes and a new dawn beckons, many locals find themselves drawn to Otori Shrine for hatsumode – the first shrine visit of the New Year. Given Okame’s association with abundant good fortune, it’s no wonder that hopeful visitors throng here, making wishes for the year ahead. The peaceful atmosphere, punctuated by distant bell chimes and whispered prayers, offers a refreshing start to the new year, enveloped in hope and gratitude.

Asakusa Shichifukujin Meguri – The Pilgrimage for Prosperity

Embark on a journey of blessings with the Asakusa Shichifukujin Meguri, where Otori Shrine stands proud as one of the eight stops of the Seven Lucky Gods Pilgrimage in Asakusa. Representing longevity and happiness, the deity Jurojin resides here, blessing pilgrims on their spiritual quest. As you traverse this path, don’t forget to collect a shrine stamp – a mark of good fortune and a cherished memory of your pilgrimage.

For those with an adventurous spirit and a thirst for cultural experiences, Otori Shrine’s festivals are a blend of tradition, celebration, and hope. Whether you’re raking in luck, making New Year wishes, or embarking on a pilgrimage, the shrine’s festive canvas promises memories that will linger long after the celebrations have faded.

Loved by Locals

Otori Shrine holds a significant place in Tokyo’s cultural and religious landscape. With its rich history, legendary connections, and vibrant Tori-no-Ichi festival, the shrine continues to attract both locals and tourists seeking blessings, good fortune, and a taste of traditional Japanese festivities.

How to Get to Otori Shrine

Ōtori Shrine (鷲神社, おおとり じんじゃ)
Official Website
2-minute walk from Senzoku Bus Stop, 都8 Bus (Boarding point: JR Kinshicho Station or Nippori Station)
7-minute walk from Iriya Station, Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line
8-minute walk from Asakusa Station, Tsukuba Express

For Further Reading:

Otori Jinja, Asakusa Nadokoro Shichifukujin (Japanese)
Otori Shrine Official Website
Toraberu JP article (Japanese)
Otafuku- Okame by Traditional Kyoto
Okame (plain-looking woman) by Japanese Wiki Corpus
What is the meaning of “Hyottoko” and “Okame”? by HH JapanNeeds