If you’re looking for a place to take a break from exploring Miyajima, Senjokaku is one of the most relaxing places you can find on the island. Also known as Hokoku Shrine and Toyokuni Shrine, this expansive wooden hall was commissioned by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, one of Japan’s great unifiers, as a tribute to the fallen soldiers of his time. Left unfinished, the pavilion’s sheer size and the mystery of its incomplete state add to its allure, inviting travelers to step back in time and experience a piece of feudal Japan.
Why Visit Senjokaku Pavillion
- Architectural Marvel: Despite being unfinished, Senjokaku is impressive due to its sheer size, equivalent to 1000 tatami mats. The hall’s open and airy structure, lacking complete walls and a front entrance, offers a unique architectural experience.
- Cultural Insights: Once intended as a Buddhist hall, it was repurposed as a Shinto shrine dedicated to Toyotomi Hideyoshi after the Meiji Restoration. This transition reflects significant changes in Japanese religious practices and politics.
- Scenic Location: Set on Miyajima Island, Senjokaku is not only a site of historical and cultural interest but also offers stunning views of the surrounding scenic landscapes, including the famous floating torii gate of Itsukushima Shrine.
The Historical Context of Senjokaku
The Origin and Purpose of Senjokaku
Senjokaku Pavilion, located on the picturesque Miyajima Island, was conceived by one of Japan’s most notable historical figures, Toyotomi Hideyoshi. Initiated in 1587, the pavilion was envisioned as a spiritual space dedicated to the chanting of Buddhist sutras for the repose of fallen soldiers. This grand endeavor reflected Hideyoshi’s deep commitment to both his men and his Buddhist faith, showcasing his multifaceted role as a military leader and a devout believer. The name “Senjokaku,” which translates to “pavilion of 1000 mats,” aptly describes the vast scale of the hall, underscoring its intended significance as a place of immense spiritual and social importance.
Architectural Ambitions and Interruptions
The architectural design of Senjokaku mirrors the ambitious spirit of its founder. The pavilion’s massive scale and its open, airy design were meant to accommodate large gatherings and sutra-chanting ceremonies, creating a hub of spiritual activity. However, the sudden death of Toyotomi Hideyoshi in 1598 left the structure in an unfinished state. With no ceilings except for those over the gods’ seats and lacking a front entrance, Senjokaku stands as a poignant reminder of unfulfilled aspirations. This unfinished aspect of the pavilion adds to its historical intrigue, offering visitors a glimpse into the turbulent period of Japanese history when the transfer of power from the Toyotomi lineage to Tokugawa Ieyasu left many such projects in limbo.
Through its grand design and unfinished state, Senjokaku not only tells a story of historical ambitions and interruptions but also serves as a symbolic representation of the impermanence that is a recurring theme in Buddhist teachings. Each visit to this pavilion provides a profound connection to Japan’s storied past, reflecting the complex interplay of history, religion, and personal ambition.
From Buddhist Hall to Shinto Shrine
The transformation of Senjokaku from a Buddhist hall into the Hokoku Shrine encapsulates a significant shift in the religious landscape of Japan during the Meiji period. Originally intended as a venue for Buddhist sutra chanting, the pavilion’s purpose was dramatically altered following the Meiji Restoration, a period marked by profound changes in Japanese society and governance. This re-dedication to Toyotomi Hideyoshi under the Shinto banner in 1872 was part of a broader movement to separate Shinto and Buddhism, which had been intertwined for centuries. This transition not only reflects the political and religious dynamics of the time but also highlights the adaptability of religious practices and spaces in Japan.
The Visual Majesty of Senjokaku
Senjokaku, nestled atop a scenic overlook on Miyajima Island, presents a striking architectural blend of grandeur and rustic charm, reflecting its complex history and multifaceted use over the centuries.
Elements of Symbolism and Cultural Continuity
The roof of Senjokaku is particularly notable, not just for its massive scale but also for its ornate gold-foil tiles that have been restored over the years to maintain their original luster from the Momoyama period. These tiles feature the character for “king” (王), symbolizing Hideyoshi’s imperial ambition and the divine reverence in which he was held posthumously. This symbolic embellishment reflects the period’s opulent architectural style, characterized by a combination of majestic aesthetics and spiritual symbolism.
Beneath the grand roof, the pavilion is supported by robust pillars, many of which bear inscriptions with the names of Kabuki actors from the Edo period, a testament to the cultural activities that once animated this space. This tradition of inscribing names and verses adds a personal, historical depth to the structure, linking it not only to its religious origins but also to its later use as a cultural and social hub where performances and gatherings took place.
A Living Monument Overlooking the Sea
Positioned on a high terrace overlooking the island, Senjokaku functions almost as an observation deck, with its large, open sides allowing the sea breeze to pass through freely, enhancing the sense of space and freedom. This placement not only maximizes the stunning views but also historically made it an ideal spot for community relaxation and interaction, particularly during the summer when it served as a popular spot for cooling off and enjoying the scenic vistas.
Today, despite its unfinished state, Senjokaku stands as a powerful cultural artifact, offering visitors not just a glimpse into the architectural ambitions of Toyotomi Hideyoshi but also into the ongoing cultural life that has pervaded the structure over the centuries. Its blend of majestic architecture, historical layers, and open, welcoming space makes it a unique monument within the rich tapestry of Miyajima’s cultural heritage.
Tips for Visitors
What to Look For: While exploring Senjokaku, pay close attention to the detailed artwork on the ceilings and the inscriptions on the pillars, which include names of Kabuki actors. These elements are not only beautiful but are also steeped in historical significance. The open structure of the pavilion allows for an unobstructed view of the surrounding landscape, providing a perfect blend of cultural and natural beauty.
Cultural Etiquettes to Observe: Remember to remove your shoes before entering Senjokaku, as is customary in many traditional Japanese structures. Wearing socks is advisable. Be respectful of the site’s cultural significance by maintaining a quiet demeanor and using your phone discreetly. Photography is allowed, but it should not disrupt the peace of the place or other visitors’ experiences.
Video
Senjokaku is among the spots featured in this video about Miyajima. The segment starts at 6:26.
How to Get to Senjokaku
Senjokaku (Hokoku Shrine, Toyokuni Shrine, 千畳閣, 豊国神社)
8:30 AM to 4:30 PM
Admission Fee: ¥300
13-minute walk from Miyajima Port
