How would you like to meet a water goblin? In Japanese folklore, these creatures are called kappa and you might just be able to catch sight of one if you go to Kappabuchi in Iwate Prefecture.
What’s a Kappa?
You may have seen them in manga or anime. You may have even spotted them printed on posters, everyday items, and other goods. Among the figures of Japanese folklore, kappa are among the most popular.
According to legends, kappa are human-like with features that are similar to turtles and birds. Some of them are depicted to have turtle shells on their backs, others have none and look a size smaller than an average human being. It’s also common to see kappa with green skin, although particularly in Tono, they are said to have red faces. They also have beaks for mouths and saucers on their heads that must always be filled with water. Otherwise, they’d die.
Kappa reportedly live in small bodies of water like streams and rivers. They can, however, walk on land so long as their saucers remain full. There are many stories of kappa pretending to be human, too. So much so that they’d get women pregnant.
In some tales, kappa are benign. In others, harmful. Whichever they may be, the one quality they all share is being mischievous. Kappa plays tricks on humans and animals, which can range from small pranks to luring them to water to their death. In Tono, kappa are also known to steal horses.
They say that if you meet a kappa, one way you could outsmart them is by bowing. Because they are essentially Japanese, kappa bow back, and when they do so, the water from their saucers spills, causing them to die. It’s a bit too extreme if you ask me, so perhaps it’s best used as a last resort.
Kappabuchi Pool
Kappabuchi is the name of the stream that runs behind Jokenji Temple. According to local lore, many kappa lived (or still live) here, and that you can catch one if you try to lure them with their favorite food: cucumbers.
For this reason, you will find fishing sticks with cucumbers in the area. Visitors can grab one and try, although as you may have guessed, these are mostly used as props for photo ops. I don’t think people actually try to fish one out of the stream—I’d be scared out of my wits if I actually “caught” one.
Also located by the stream is a small shrine with two kappa statues as guardians. People apparently come here to pray for abundance in breast milk.
Kappa Hunter’s License
Fun fact: you can buy a kappa hunter’s license (カッパ捕獲許可証, kappa kakuho kyokashō) at designated places in Tono. The license is valid for a year. Also printed on it are the 7 rules you need to follow when catching a kappa.
You can get a regular license for ¥220, or one with your photo ID for ¥900 (prices subject to change). The ¥900 one looks more like a legal ID.
You don’t really need the license to try and fish a kappa out of Kappabuchi, but it makes for a fun souvenir. I still have mine tucked in my wallet, which I sometimes pull out as a conversation starter.
Where to Buy the Kappa Hunter’s License
The kappa hunter’s license is available at the Tono City Tourism Association near JR Tono Station or at Denshoen. Denshoen is only a 5-minute walk away from Kappabuchi so you can get one while you’re in the area.
The Seven Rules for Catching Kappa
- Keep the kappa alive and do not hurt it.
- Make sure that the saucer on its head is in tact and filled with water.
- This permit is only valid for catching kappa at Kappabuchi.
- Only catch kappa that has a red face and a big mouth.
- Do not use tools with metal fittings to catch the kappa.
- Use fresh vegetables as bait.
- Obtain recognition from the Tono City Tourism Association upon a successful catch.
Local Tour with Kappa Ojisan
If you want to know more about the legends of Tono, you can book a tour at Denshoen. The tour is led by Kappa Ojisan, a local known for his vast knowledge of Tono folklore and fiery passion for keeping tradition alive. At the time of writing, the current Kappa Ojisan in Tono is the second person to assume the title, as the first one has passed away. You can see a photo of the first-generation Kappa Ojisan in the shrine near Kappabuchi.
Kappabuchi Video
The above video shows different areas of interest in Tono. Kappabuchi starts at around 4:34.
How to Get to Kappabuchi
Kappabuchi (カッパ淵, かっぱぶち)
Open 24/7
Official Website
20-minute bus ride from JR Tono Station
From Tono Station, take a bus heading to Sakanoshita and get off at Ashiaraigawa. Kappabuchi is 8 minutes on foot from the bus stop.
Also Nearby:
Denshoen is a 5-minute walk from Kappabuchi. There’s also a curious parking lot with plenty of strange statues nearby.
