Ever heard of Shibamata in Tokyo? It’s this quaint little spot in the Katsushika Ward, famed for being the setting of the classic Tora-san films. Walking its nostalgic streets, you’ll feel a relaxed vibe that’s hard to find in the bustling city center. Let me take you through what you’d find in this neighborhood.

Why Visit Shibamata

  • Rich Film Heritage: Shibamata is famously depicted in the “Otoko wa Tsurai yo” film series. Fans of Tora-san can immerse themselves in the world of these beloved movies, making it a pilgrimage site for cinephiles.
  • Traditional Atmosphere: The district retains a traditional, more specifically a Showa Retro charm, with well-preserved buildings and a slower pace of life. It’s like stepping back in time, perfect for those seeking a respite from modern Tokyo’s hustle.
  • Tasty Street Food: The approach to the temple is lined with shops selling traditional crafts, sweets, and snacks. This street is a food lover’s dream, offering authentic tastes like dango and kusa mochi.

Exploring Shibamata: Tokyo’s Hidden Historical Gem

A Journey Through Cinema

Poster of Otoko wa Tsurai Yo at Shibamata Station

Shibamata may not be as widely recognized as Shibuya or Shinjuku, but it holds a special place in the hearts of many Japanese cinema enthusiasts. The neighborhood is best known as the backdrop for the beloved “Otoko wa Tsurai yo” film series, which follows the lovable Tora-san on his misadventures. The streets of Shibamata have been preserved to maintain the Showa era feel, making them a living movie set. As you walk these streets, you can almost see Tora-san ambling along, suitcase in hand, ready with a quip or a smile for everyone he meets.

A Culinary Delight

Jars of senbei

For food enthusiasts, Shibamata presents an array of traditional Japanese treats. The approach to the revered Shibamata Taishakuten Temple is famously lined with rows of old-fashioned shops selling snacks like kusa dango (mugwort-flavored mochi), senbei rice crackers, and other regional specialties. These shops not only serve delicious food but also offer a peek into the culinary practices that have been passed down through generations. Each bite is not just a taste but a story of Shibamata’s rich cultural heritage.

Cultural and Spiritual Hub

White snakes with golden poo at Taishakuten

At the heart of Shibamata is the Taishakuten Temple, renowned for its intricate wood carvings and beautiful garden. Visitors are often captivated by the detailed wooden reliefs depicting scenes from Buddhist scriptures, which adorn the temple’s walls. The adjoining garden, with its carefully arranged stones and manicured trees, provides a serene space for reflection and relaxation.

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Attractions

Statue of Sakura, Tora-san's sister in the Otoko wa Tsurai Yo movies

Tora-san & Sakura Statues

Upon arriving in Shibamata, visitors are greeted by the charming statues of Tora-san and his sister Sakura, located right outside the station. These statues celebrate the area’s connection to the iconic film series “Otoko wa Tsurai yo.” The statues not only serve as a popular photo spot but also symbolize Shibamata’s pride in its cinematic heritage, welcoming everyone with the same warmth that Tora-san himself might have offered.

Taishakuten Sando

Taishakuten Sando

The Taishakuten Sando, the main approach to the Taishakuten Temple, is a vibrant street bustling with activity and traditional appeal. Lined with old-fashioned shops and stalls, visitors can find a variety of handmade crafts, traditional sweets, and souvenirs. This street captures the essence of Shibamata’s cultural richness and offers a lively atmosphere that showcases the local lifestyle and commerce.

Shibamata Haikara Yokocho

Haikara Yokocho

Haikara Yokocho is a cozy shop along Taishakuten Sando that takes visitors back to the early 20th century. Here, you can explore a range of vintage shops selling classic toys, retro clothing, and antiques. You can even find pinball machines, retro arcade machines, and small shooting gallery reminiscent of local fairs. The second floor of this shop is the Shibamata Toy Museum.

Shibamaata Toy Museum

Shibamata Toy Museum

The Shibamata Toy Museum offers a nostalgic journey into Japan’s past, featuring a retro toy haven where visitors can explore an array of Showa-era game machines and enjoy classic toys and games like operational slot car racing. Open only on weekends and public holidays, this museum captures the essence of childhood in Japan with its unique collection of toys and games, making it a must-visit for those interested in the cultural and playful history of the area.

Shibamata Taishakuten

Taishakuten

The Taishakuten Temple is the spiritual heart of Shibamata and a stunning example of religious art and architecture. Known for its elaborate wood carvings that depict scenes from Buddhist lore, the temple offers a profound sense of peace and beauty. The adjacent garden, with its carefully curated landscape, provides a serene setting for contemplation and appreciation of nature.

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Yagiri no Watashi

Yagiri no Watashi

Yagiri no Watashi is a historic ferry ride across the Edogawa River, offering scenic views and a touch of adventure. This ferry has been operating for centuries and provides a unique way to experience the natural beauty surrounding Shibamata. It’s a perfect escape for those looking to enjoy a quieter, more picturesque side of Tokyo.

Tora-san Museum

Tora-san Museum

Dedicated to the beloved character Tora-san from “Otoko wa Tsurai yo,” the Tora-san Museum offers an immersive experience into the world of the films. The museum showcases various memorabilia, film sets, and personal items related to the series. It’s a must-visit for fans and those interested in Japanese cinema and its impact on local culture.

Shibamata’s Culinary Delights

Imagawayaki

Imagawayaki, reminiscent of fluffy mini pancakes, is a delightful treat you’ll find in Shibamata. These soft cakes are cooked in a special round mold and come with a variety of fillings, from the traditional sweet red bean paste to crowd favorites like cheese and black sesame. As you stroll through Shibamata’s charming streets, these warm, stuffed pancakes offer a comforting bite, perfect for enjoying at a leisurely pace.

Available at: Mikawaya

Imagawayaki

Chicken Skin Gyoza

For those who enjoy a savory bite, chicken skin gyoza is a unique take on the traditional Japanese dumpling. Instead of the usual pork filling and thin dough wrapper, these gyozas use crispy chicken skin as the outer layer, giving them an extra crunch and depth of flavor that pairs wonderfully with a cold beer or a soft drink.

Available at: Ojigi Chaya

Chicken skin gyoza

Okonomiyaki on a Stick

Transforming the classic Japanese savory pancake into a street-friendly version, okonomiyaki on a stick is a convenient and tasty way to enjoy this popular dish. The skewered pancake is grilled and typically topped with a variety of condiments like mayonnaise, sweet sauce, and bonito flakes, making it a flavorful and filling snack.

Available at: Ojigi Chaya

Okonomiyaki on a stick

Kusa Dango

Kusa dango is a traditional Japanese sweet made from mochi rice and flavored with mugwort, giving it a distinctive green color and a subtly herbal taste. These soft, chewy dumplings are often served skewered and coated in a sweet soy sauce glaze, combining sweet and savory in each bite. Kusa dango is Shibamata’s local specialty; the shops here have been selling these treats since the 1800s.

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Available at: Takagiya Roho, Monzen Toraya

Kusa dango

Senbei Rice Crackers

Placed inside rows of transparent jars, senbei rice crackers are hard to miss as you explore Shibamata. These crispy snacks are available in a variety of flavors, from savory to sweet, capturing the essence of traditional Japanese taste profiles. As you take in the sights and sounds of the area, senbei makes for the perfect snack, offering a delightful crunch with each bite.

Available at: Kanekoya, Tachibanaya, Asanoya

Senbei

Tamagoyaki on a Stick

Tamagoyaki on a stick is a fun and portable way to enjoy this beloved Japanese omelet. Sweet, fluffy, and rolled up on a skewer, it’s an ideal snack for those on the go. This version of tamagoyaki brings a playful twist to the traditional recipe, making it a favorite among both kids and adults

Available at: Suzushiro-an

Tamagoyaki on a stick

Video

How to Get to Shibamata

By Train

From central Tokyo, take the JR Yamanote Line to Nippori Station. From there, switch to the Keisei Line and travel to Keisei-Takasago Station. Once you arrive at Keisei-Takasago, transfer to the Keisei Kanamachi Line for a short ride to Shibamata Station. The journey from Nippori to Shibamata typically takes around 30 minutes, making it an easy day trip from the city center.

By Car

Shibamata is accessible by car via the Metropolitan Expressway No. 6 Mukojima Line. Exit at the Kanamachi Exit and follow local roads to Shibamata. The drive from central Tokyo can take about 40 minutes, depending on traffic conditions. Parking can be found near the main attractions in Shibamata, though spaces might be limited, especially on weekends and holidays. It’s advisable to arrive early or use public transport to avoid parking difficulties.

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