Spot: Iya Valley (also known as Iya Kei, Iyakei Gorge)
Prefecture: Tokushima
Date Visited: May 5, 2019
When I got off the train at JR Oboke Station, my sleepiness was quickly replaced with a rush of excitement. I was about to explore Iya Valley, a remote area in the Shikoku Islands nestled deep in the mountains. Despite the far-flung location, Iya Valley attracts visitors with its spectacular nature views and daunting vine bridges—an allure any nature lover would find hard to resist.
Outside the station gates, the taxi I hired for the day was parked in the narrow, curvy path. Already, I could tell that booking a private tour was a good decision. Iya Valley’s sightseeing spots are accessible by bus, but they come few and far in between. Traveling by car is a much better option, but if you can’t drive one or are not comfortable with tricky mountain roads, a private taxi is the next best thing.
My driver for the day greeted me with a warm smile. She asked me what I had in mind for a one-day itinerary and I quickly tell her that there are two absolute musts on my list: the Oku Iya Monorail and the vine bridges. And with that, my one-day adventure began.
Iya no Kazurabashi
I was eager to ride the forest monorail above all things, but the driver suggested that we drop by Iya no Kazurabashi beforehand. There are three remaining vine bridges in Iya, and this is the largest and the most accessible, which also makes it the most popular among tourists.
Now, I absolutely love suspension bridges and have confidently crossed quite a few in Japan. Much to my surprise, however, Kazurabashi proved to be a lot more challenging. The bridge is 2 meters wide, which means 2-3 people could walk abreast. No one was doing so, however, as everyone was hanging tightly to the handrails, moving slowly across the 45-meter bridge.
The bridge starts to sway as soon as you step foot. If you’re not careful, your leg could slip through the wide gap between the planks. I also gripped my DSLR tightly as I crossed; I didn’t think it would survive a 15-meter fall.
The bridge can only be crossed in one direction and if I recall correctly, it took me 10 minutes or so to make it to the other side. It felt like I completed a challenge after crossing Kazurabashi so I asked the driver to take a photo, and look, the stranger behind me decided to pose as well.
Iya-no-Kazurabashi Hours & Fees
| Admission Fee | |
| Adult | ¥550 |
| Child | ¥350 |
Iya no Kazurabashi (祖谷のかずら橋、いやのかずらばし)
Also referred to as: Kazurabashi Bridge, Iya Kazura Bridge)
Google Maps URL
Operates all-year-round, 07:00~18:30 (may vary slightly according to season)
30-minute bus ride from JR Oboke Station
Oku Iya Forest Monorail
The eastern portion of Iya Valley is called “Oku Iya,” with “oku” (奥) meaning “deep.” It’s deep in the sense that the attractions here are harder to get to, but are far more interesting, at least for me.
Among these fascinating attractions is the Oku Iya Monorail, which is a 70-minute ride on a slow-moving cart that takes you through the woods. It lets you take in the scenery and enjoy the tranquility of the forest, in the same manner as you would on a hike, minus the workout. Me being a “railway romantic,” made this the attraction I had to see no matter what.
Limited Carts & Seats
Each cart can only accommodate two people and only a limited number of carts runs each day. The place is close to “Iyashi no Onsenkyo,” which means the hot spring guests get first dibs on tickets. Tickets can’t be reserved beforehand, so you’ll have to buy them early during peak season.
Thankfully, I got to the monorail just in time. There was only one ticket left, and it was for the cart that was running in 15 minutes. One other solo traveler was also waiting for it, and we ended up riding together. The guy was generous enough to let me have the front seat, even though he was there ahead of me.
Prepare for a Long Ride
When the cart came and we got seated, the operators briefed us on safety. They mentioned that while it is rare, there is a possibility that the cart would get stuck. The cart is equipped with a walkie talkie, and in the event it stops moving, we were to radio in and inform them which part of the course we were in, identifiable through the numbers on the tracks. Thankfully, this never happened.
I was exhilarated as the ride began. The chairs adjusted automatically as the path went uphill and downhill. It’s like riding a roller coaster, and when the seats change it makes you brace for the downhill slope, except that the fast drop never really happens.
The ride through the woods felt exciting at first, but being 70 minutes long, the scenery became monotonous after a while. There’s a clearing on top where you can see mountains on the other side; supposedly, this should be the highlight, but the way the monorail is designed makes it anticlimactic. Ultimately, the ride is best suited for some quiet time and reflection. The guy sat behind me? Barely spoke a word. So did I.
At the end of the ride we received a pack of biscuits, which was a nice touch. I felt refreshed after the monorail ride, and at the same time elated to have crossed the top thing on my list.
How to Get to Oku Iya Kankō Shūyū Monorail
Oku Iya Kankō Shūyū Monorail (奥祖谷観光周遊モノレール, おくいたかんこうしゅうゆうものれえる)
Google Maps URL
Operates from April to November
8:30 -to 16:00 (Hours may vary slightly according to season)
Closed on Wednesday
Admission Fee: ¥2,000
Best accessed by car
Oku Iya Nijūbashi Double Vine Bridges
Going deeper into Oku, the private taxi led me to three more attractions that are in the same spot. Two of them are the double vine bridges, also known as “Nijū Kazurabashi.” Legend has it that these bridges were built by the Heike Clan as they hid in the mountains from their enemies. The idea was that should they find themselves being pursued, they could stop the people chasing them by cutting the bridges down.
The two bridges are dubbed male and female, the latter being shorter than the two. (It’s common in Japanese nomenclature to name the more challenging route “male” and the easier one “female,” unfortunately.) Despite being shorter in length than the vine bridge in West Iya, they’re just as daunting.
Oku Iya Nijū Kazurabashi Access, Hours & Fees
Oku Iya Nijū Kazurabashi (奥祖谷二重かずら橋, おくいやにじゅうかずらばし)
Google Maps URL
Operates from April to November, 8:00 to 16:00
Admission Fee: ¥500 (covers both the double vine bridges and Yaen)
Accessible by bus from JR Awa Ikeda Station
Yaen
Yaen is what you could say an earlier version of today’s ropeways. You squeeze in a small roofed cart that could fit two people at best and then start pulling the rope to get on the other side. The cart is suspended above ground, which allows riders to enjoy the view.
Yaen Access, Hours & Fees
Yaen (野猿、やえん)
Google Maps URL
Operates from April to November, 8:00 to 16:00
Admission Fee: ¥550 (covers both the double vine bridges and Yaen)
Accessible by bus from JR Awa Ikeda Station
Lunch
There were two restaurants across from the ticket booth for the double vine bridges. The above set meal was around ¥1,600. The main dish was a seasonal fish which I couldn’t take a photo of because it came later. Everything was delicious, including the soba which is among Iya Valley’s most popular dishes.
Nagoro Scarecrow Village
After lunch, the driver took me to “Kakashi no Sato” next , also knwon as the “Scarecrow Village” in English. I’d only read about Nagoro in passing before coming to Iya Valley, and I didn’t really think much of it then. After seeing the village for myself, however, I ended up making a video and a whole post about it.
The Scarecrow Village gets its name from the 200 or so scarecrows placed in various locations throughout the small town. At first glance, they look like locals minding their own business. Upon closer inspection, however, you see the dolls for what they really are—life-sized stand-in’s for the villagers that once populated the beautiful Nagoro, now a handful of people away from being a ghost town.
Nagoro Scarecrow Village Information
Nagoro Scarecrow Village (Nagoro Kakashi no Sato, なごろカカシの里、なごろかかしのさと）
Google Maps URL
Ochiai Village Observation Deck
A hamlet with traditional houses that dot one side of a mountain, Ochiai Village looks like it jumped straight out of a post card. You might catch a family of scarecrows at the viewpoint, too.
Observation Deck Information
Ochiai Shūraku Tenbōsho (落合集落展望所、おちあいしゅうらくてんぼうしょ)
Google Maps URL
Ryūgūkake Park
Let’s just say Iya Valley does not lack for suspension bridges. While Ryugukake is not a vine bridge like the other three mentioned above, it’s worth the visit. You won’t get as thrilled, but the views are still arresting.
Ryūgūgake Park Information
Ryūgūgake Park (Ryūgūgake Kōen, 竜宮崖公園, りゅうぐうがけこうえん)
Google Maps URL
Hi no Ji Bend
“Hi no Ji” refers to the hiragana character for “hi” (ひ). The river that bends around the mountain resembles the character, thus the name. While there’s not much to do around the area, the view is spectacular.
Hi no Ji Bend Information
Hi no Ji Bend (Hi no Ji Keikoku, ひのじ渓谷, ひのじけいこく)
Google Maps URL
The Peeing Boy Statue of Iya Valley
Perhaps one of the most recognizable icons of Iya Valley, the peeing boy statue, known in Japanese as shōben kozō, stands at the edge of a cliff, seemingly unfazed by the possibility of falling off.
Some accounts say that the statue was built because young boys used to pee from the cliff as a test of courage. However, there is a darker story surrounding the statue that people don’t say in the open, or at least that’s what the taxi driver told me. Some say that the the cliff was a suicide spot, and that the statue was placed to deter people from taking their lives, as well as rehabilitate the image of the place.
Given Japan’s high suicide rate, I think there’s at least a kernel of truth in the darker version. I also saw that there were a bunch of coins littered around the statue, suggesting that people threw them there, similar to how people throw coins as offerings in shrines. If the suicide angle is to be believed, then perhaps the statue is thought of as a purifying/sanctifying agent; in other words, sacred. Then again, the coins merely could have been there because people thought it was fun to throw them.
The Peeing Boy Statue Information
The Peeing Boy Statue （Shoben kozozo, 小便小僧像, しょべんこぞうぞう)
Google Maps URL
Back to JR Oboke Station
After seeing the Peeing Boy Statue, my private tour ended where it began. The driver went as far as checking what time the next train to Tokushima City will be and gave me a pen as a parting gift.
With that, I left Iya Valley satisfied, inspired, and excited to share with the world one of Japan’s hidden gems, bursting with charm and lore.
How to Get to Iya Valley
Iya Valley’s attractions are best accessed from JR Station. From there, you can either travel by bus or car.
Please keep in mind that buses don’t come frequently, and that it would be impossible to see the same spots outlined above with public transportation. If you wish to make the most out of your visit, consider renting a car or booking a private tour. I booked through VELTRA and had a splendid time. The company has options for upsizing the car for larger parties, however, the tour may not be as informative in English. Please rest assured that the drivers can communicate with basic English, and from what I’ve experienced, they’re probably eager to be of service, regardless of language barriers.
