When we think of Japanese shrines, we usually associate them with benevolent deities and guardians, so why in the world would a shrine be dedicated to a demon king?
The Meaning of Kio
The shrine in question is Inari Kio in Shinjuku, the “kio” (鬼王) in its name meaning Demon King. It’s a name so unusual for a shrine that it’s the only one of its kind. The shrine name was registered during the Meiji Era, which had strict laws on which names could be accepted. Given the character kio bares the same meaning during the Meiji Period as it does today, it should have been rejected, but nobody really knows why the application was approved. Not even the shrine’s current priest, a descendant of the Okubo family who has always been guardians of the shrine, knows the reason why.
Three Deities
Inari Kio was originally dedicated to Inari, the deity of foxes who also protects rice and agriculture. The shrine has always stood where it now stands, back when it was called West Okubo instead of East Shinjuku. In 1831, a resident of the area went on pilgrimage to Kumano, where he fell ill. The only thing that cured him was visiting a shrine dedicated to Kio Gongen, a collective name for three deities. As a symbol of his gratitude, he asked that Kio Gongen be enshrined together with Inari when he came back to West Okubo.
Not much is known about Kio Gongen and the origin of its name, however. The supposed shrine in Kumano no longer exists today, thus making Inari Kio the only shrine that worships this group of deities.
Connection to Taira no Masakado
One other plausible explanation behind the shrine’s name is that West Okubo had some connection with Taira no Masakado, a prominent figure in Japanese history (and ghost stories), known for leading the first recorded uprising against Japan’s central government. One of Taira no Makado’s childhood nicknames is “Kiomaru,” thus lending the shrine its name. No official records of the shrine mentions this, however, so as good as an explanation it may be, it remains just a theory.
Ebisu is There, Too!
With Inari and Kio Gongen as the shrine’s main gods, Ebisu may escape one’s notice. A portion of Inari Kio is dedicated the god of fortune. Apparently, the temple that venerated him caught fire during the Edo period. As a result, it was moved and merged with Inario Kio. This is the same Ebisu that you visit when you do the Shinjuku Yamanote 7 Lucky Gods Pilgrimage.
Good for the Skin
Inari Kio is believed to cure illnesses to this day, especially ones concerning the skin. Offering tofu when you visit is said to help, as well as rubbing the shrine’s protective charm called “nademamori“ onto affected areas.
A Demon Water Basin?
Among the artifacts on the shrine grounds is a sculpture of what looks like a demon holding a water basin. Legends say it once belonged to a shogun’s retainer in the Bunsei era but was believed to be haunting the village. It emitted mysterious bathing sounds during the night, which prompted the head of the household to slash it from behind. (Apparently, you can still see the mark it left today.) This angered the spirit residing in the statue who then cursed his family.
Because of this unfortunate turn of events, the family that kept the sculpture decided to give it to the shrine. Once on the shrine grounds, the statue was heard yelping, “Ouch! It hurts! It’s hot!” After that, the condition of the children around the village improved, as if a curse had been lifted.
The statue remains in Inari Kio to this day, and it is said that pouring water over it helps children grow healthy.
Shrouded in Mystery
With so much of the shrine shrouded in mystery, we can only guess how the characters for “demon king” ended up on its nameplate. At the end of the day, the shrine has been beloved by locals for over 350 years. The name matters less than the impact it has had on people’s lives.
How to Get to Inari Kio
Inari Kio Shrine (稲荷鬼王神社、いなり きおう じんじゃ)
09:00 to 17:00
Website (Japanese only)
3-minute walk from Higashi Shinjuku Station (Tokyo Metro Fukutoshin Line, Toei Oedo Line)
8-minute walk from Seibu Shinjuku Station (Seibu Shinjuku Line)
11-minute walk from JR Shinjuku Station
