Kappabashi in Tokyo is known for two things: quality kitchenware and the area’s ferocious love for kappa—a supernatural entity in Japanese folklore. So much so that thery have a Kappa-dera, a kappa temple (official name: Sogenji), with a mummified hand of a kappa.
What is a Kappa?
The kappa comes from ancient Japanese mythology. Known for their webbed hands and feet, the kappa is often depicted as a human-like creature that has a turtle shell on its back, a beak for a mouth, and a saucer on its head that must always be filled with water.
They are notoriously mischievous. They are known to play tricks on people and animals. At worst, they steal horses, impregnate women, and drown children in the river. Some tales, however, depict these river imps to be be friendly and helpful. Such is the case for Kappabashi.
Why are Kappa Celebrated in Kappabashi?
Around the 1800s, the area that is now Kappabashi was prone to flooding because it lies close to Sumida River. A local merchant who sells raincoats—also called “kappa” in Japanese—funded the construction of canals as well as a pedestrian bridge to alleviate the situation. The name Kappabashi, which means “Kappa Bridge”, alludes to this raincoat seller named Kihachi, as well as the mythical figures of folklore who are said to have helped him build the bridge.
Today, Kappabashi has adopted the kappa as its mascot, and you can see several kappa statues in the area. In one of my visits, I happened to meet a friendly lady wearing a face mask with a kappa design, who jovially told me that she was part of a group of friends who regularly meet up to express their love for the mystical creature.
Kihachi’s name may be less known, but we see the legacy live on in a different form in the residents who love and appreciate kappa.
Why is Sogenji called Kappa-dera?
“Kappa-dera,” meaning “Kappa Temple,” is the nickname of the Buddhist temple Sogenji. Aside from being located in Kappabashi, the temple also serves as the burial ground for Kihachi, the raincoat merchant who helped prevent floods by funding a drainage system.
The temple also keeps the mummified hand of a kappa, which is available for public viewing, albeit behind closed doors. It’s hard to tell in the photo, but the kappa hand on display is very small, like that of a young child, but with longer and fewer fingers. Little is known about how this came to be in the temple’s posession, and I guess that adds to the mystery.
How to See the Mummified Kappa Hand in Sogenji
When you enter the temple, you will find a small garden with kappa statues. To your right you will see a set of stairs that leads to an offering box. The mummified hand is kept in the small space behind it, which you can only see through slits. You will find several other items on display, too, like kappa statues, taiko drums, and artwork from renowned artists including Osamu Tezuka.
If you wish to make an offering, you can do so by slipping coins in the offering box (¥15 is considered lucky), or by placing a cucumber. According to legends, cucumbers are kappa favorites, so if you want their blessing, cucumbers may be the way to go.
Kappa-dera Sogenji Temple Video
How to Get to Sogenji
Sōgenji (曹源寺, そうげんじ)
Also known as: Kappa-dera (カッパでら)
Official Website
10-minute walk from Asakusa Station, Tsukuba Express
12-minute walk from Inaricho Station, Tokyo Metro Ginza Line
12-minute walk from Iriya Station, Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line
