Some of the most bizarre tales are hiding in plain sight. At first glance Taisoji is a small, quiet Japanese temple, but a sinister story has been passed down from generation to generation about one of its statues.
Date Visited: September 5, 2020
Enma Eats a Baby
The statue in question is that of Enma, the Japanese name for the King of Hell. Enma statues in Japan are often depicted with strong features—red face, bulging eyes, and an open mouth as if in the midst of rage.
The story goes like this. A mother was carrying her young child on her back as she visited the Enma statue. The child started crying as she prayed, so shushed her baby with a warning, “Enma doesn’t like misbehaving children. Enma will eat you if you keep crying.”
As she said the words, the mother felt the load on her back lighten. She looked to check, only to find that her child had disappeared. She searched frantically until her sight landed on the Enma statue, where she saw a thread of the garment she was carrying her baby with hanging from the statue’s mouth.
When you visit Taisoji today, you will still see the said statue. But fear not, it lies behind a locked screen. Pilgrims (and curious explorers) can pay their respects to the god of the underworld by pressing a button, which lights up the statue’s face for at least a whole minute.
Of course, the story about the statue eating a baby is mere folklore. In fact, the description that Taisoji writes about it suggests that it was used to discipline children, perhaps, in the same manner grotesque fairy tales were once used to scare children from misbehaving.
Writer Yuki Yoshida (Touring Weird Spots) also suggests another idea. He posits that the “baby-eating” Enma may have been a real violent person, feared by meshi mori onna, women who served at lodges in the 1800s.
Whatever the real story behind the statue is, I still wouldn’t bring a baby anywhere near it.
How to Get to Taisoji
Tasoji (太宗寺、たいそうじ)
3-minute walk from Shinjuku-gyoemmmae Station, Tokyo Metro Marunouchi Line
4-minute walk from Shinjuku-sanchome Station, Toei Shinjuku or Tokyo Metro Marunouchi Line
No entrance fee
Website (Japanese Only)
Apparently, some accounts have mentioned that there are a lot of stray cats in Taisoji, but like the reviews on Google Maps say, I also didn’t find any during my visit to the temple.
Explore Further
Taisoji is close to Shinjuku Gyoen, which you may want to include on a day trip. There are many restaurants and cafes in the area, including Cafe La Boheme, featured in the animated movie Kimi no Na Wa (Your Name).
