In the bustling metropolis of Tokyo, where skyscrapers and neon lights reign supreme, it’s hard to imagine life moving at a slower pace. But tucked away on the serene banks of the Edo River, Yagiri no Watashi offers just that—a quiet, nostalgic journey back in time. This charming, centuries-old ferry has been carrying passengers across the river for over 400 years, providing a rare glimpse into Japan’s Edo-period past. If you’re looking for an experience that blends history, nature, and a touch of old Tokyo, Yagiri no Watashi is the hidden gem you’ve been waiting for.
Why Ride Yagiri no Watashi
- Step into Japan’s Edo Period: Yagiri no Watashi is the last surviving ferry from the Edo period in Tokyo. Riding it gives you an authentic glimpse into how people traveled 400 years ago, a rare experience in such a modern city.
- A Unique Slice of Tokyo History: As one of the oldest transportation methods still in operation, the ferry represents a living piece of Tokyo’s cultural heritage.
- Perfect for Escaping the City Hustle: Unlike the crowded tourist spots in Tokyo, this ferry offers a peaceful escape. You can drift along the Edo River, surrounded by calm water and nature, making it a tranquil retreat. You can also combine it with a visit to the nostalgic neighborhood, Shibamata.
The History Behind Yagiri no Watashi
A 400-Year-Old Tradition on the Edo River
Imagine Tokyo during the 17th century—long before bullet trains and traffic jams—when farmers and locals needed a simple way to get across the Edo River. Enter Yagiri no Watashi, a ferry service established in the Edo period to allow farmers to cross the river between their lands without the hassle of official permissions. At a time when border control was strict, and crossing into other territories could get you into serious trouble, Yagiri no Watashi offered a rare exemption. The ferry has stood the test of time, and today it remains the last Edo-period ferry still operating in Tokyo.
Managed by Generations of the Sugiura Family
While the ferry was initially run by the government, it has been lovingly maintained by the Sugiura family since the Meiji period. This multi-generational stewardship is part of what makes Yagiri no Watashi so special—it’s not just a relic of the past, but a living tradition. For over a century, the Sugiura family has ensured that this unique piece of history continues to float along the Edo River, uniting the past and present.
Yagiri no Watashi in Popular Culture
Yagiri no Watashi is more than just a ferry—it’s a cultural icon that has been immortalized in Japanese literature and entertainment. The crossing featured prominently in the novel Nogiku no Haka (The Wild Daisy) by Sachio Ito, and in the 1976 enka song “Yagiri no Watashi,” which struck a nostalgic chord with audiences across Japan. It also made appearances in the beloved film series Otoko wa Tsurai Yo (It’s Tough to Be a Man), solidifying its place in the hearts of Japanese people as a symbol of simpler, more romantic times.
A Scenic and Peaceful Ride Across the Edo River
The Traditional Ferry Experience
Climbing aboard Yagiri no Watashi is like stepping into a time machine. The boat itself, with its wooden hull and simple design, hasn’t changed much in centuries. There are no engines here—just the gentle push of the ferryman’s pole guiding you across the river. For 10 tranquil minutes, you’ll float across the Edo River, surrounded by the soothing sounds of nature, with occasional funny commentary from the ferryman. It’s no wonder Yagiri no Watashi has been designated as one of Japan’s 100 Soundscapes, preserving the natural harmony of water and wildlife in an increasingly noisy world.
What You’ll See on the Journey
The journey across the river is peaceful, with views that change with the seasons. In spring, cherry blossoms paint the riverside in soft pink, while summer offers a lush green backdrop. Autumn brings fiery red leaves, and in winter, a cool, crisp calm settles over the water. You might catch glimpses of local wildlife, and there’s always the sight of the ferryman expertly navigating the river—an art in itself. It’s a brief trip, but it offers a moment of quiet reflection in an otherwise fast-paced city.
Video
Yagiri no Watashi is featured in this video about Unusual Things to Do in Tokyo. The segment starts at 7:06.
Planning Your Trip to Yagiri no Watashi
Ferry Schedule and Prices
If you’re ready to experience this piece of history, you’ll be happy to know it’s quite accessible. The ferry operates daily from 10:00 AM to 4:30 PM during the warmer months and runs on weekends and holidays in the winter. A one-way ticket costs a mere 200 yen for adults and 100 yen for children, making it one of the most affordable ways to enjoy a slice of old Tokyo. The ferry is just a 10-minute walk from Shibamata Station, conveniently located behind the Shibamata Taishakuten Temple—another must-visit site while you’re in the area.
What to Expect on Both Sides
The ferry connects the historic district of Shibamata in Tokyo with Matsudo City in Chiba Prefecture, giving you the option to explore both sides. However, don’t be surprised if you end up doing what I did—taking the ferry round-trip! There’s not much to do on the Matsudo side unless you’re looking to explore local neighborhoods, so many people simply enjoy the scenic ride there and back. But honestly, with the charm of the crossing, you won’t mind one bit.
