Hooked on Hokkaido: My Hilarious Ice Fishing Adventure

Running frantically around Sapporo Station was not the ideal start to the day. I was within minutes of running late for an activity I booked: ice fishing in Hokkaido. While I’ve lived in Japan for a while now, I’m originally from a tropical country that neither has winter nor snow. I’ve never gone fishing either. All I know is that I wanted to make a video about the best winter things to do in Hokkaido. So here I am, scrambling to make my way to the activity, questioning my life choices driven by the punishing ambition of churning out content. Alas, I’ve sold my soul to YouTube.

But hey, travel is all about experiencing new things, right? And boy, did I experience something totally new to me on this trip. So let me take you to what ice fishing is like, and by the end of this read, you’ll hopefully have an idea of whether this winter activity is something you should try your hands on when you visit Hokkaido next time.

Hokkaido Ice Fishing in a Nutshell

When you think of winter in Hokkaido, what’s the first thing that comes to mind? For many, it’s the world-renowned powder snow found in places like Niseko, where people from all over the globe gather to ski and snowboard. But what if you’re not into winter sports? Enter ice fishing: a winter activity for all ages and skill levels.

The main draw of ice fishing is that you can easily try it even without prior knowledge or experience. It’s an activity that you can easily book on travel sites, and the organizers make sure that you have everything you need: from snow pants and shoes to fishing gear.

In Sapporo, the Barato River is a popular site for ice fishing. During winter months, it partially freezes making it an ideal spot to fish smelt, also known as wakasagi in Japanese. When you book an ice fishing activity, you’ll be assigned a tent where you can fish for an hour or so. At the end of the fishing time, the staff takes everyone’s catch and makes tempura out of it.

Sounds fun, right? That’s exactly what I thought when I made a booking. And then I realized I was in over my head.

My Quirky Ice Fishing Experience

So, here’s the deal. I’m not exactly an outdoor activities kind of person. I mean, I like nature and hiking, but when it comes to stuff that requires skills other than the basic use of feet to walk, I’m no good. Sometimes I even fail at walking. Oh the stories the scars on my knees would tell, having tripped and fallen on them way too many times. So the idea of ice fishing? Pretty cool. Me actually doing it? Maybe a disaster in the making.

Frantic Start

It took around 40 minutes to get to our drop-off location. It was a restaurant across the frozen Barato River, where we were handed waterproof pants and shoes. I’d actually applied for the largest size of pants available when I made my booking, but the guide just took one look at me and decided to give me a pair that was two sizes smaller. I briefly wondered whether I had body dysmorphia and whether I’d let my fear of not being able to fit clothes in front of other people win over me. A buff, strong-looking American lady came after me, and the person in charge exclaimed out loud, in what sounded like wonderment, that they had to give her the biggest size. Never mind. As long as I live in a country where I’m bigger than the average size, my fears are valid.

Once we were all dressed and ready, we made our way to the Barato River, or at least that was what it was supposed to be. It was all snow and I wouldn’t have known it was a river if I weren’t told. On it were colorful tents that added a dash of color to the otherwise solemn scenery. At the striking sight, I almost relaxed, but when the guide started explaining what to do, ice fishing looked a lot more complicated than I first thought it would be. And then came the warning: if the fishing hooks get caught on your skin, you’ll have to be taken to the hospital. Anxiety level: max.

When the demonstration ended, one of the staff took me to my tent. Here’s another surprise: I get the tent all by myself. I had previously thought that I’d be lumped with other people, but no, I had a tent of my own. Pro: I get to film shamelessly. Con: I probably wouldn’t catch any fish and I wouldn’t be able to film anybody else making a catch. Ah well, at least I can film myself trying.

Thrills & Tribulations

Inside the tent was a small, low chair. Holes had already been drilled for fishing, so all I had to do was sit down, attach the bait, and start fishing. After carefully baiting the hook, I lowered the line. I waited a few minutes, mostly prioritizing taking photos and videos. I wasn’t really expecting to catch anything, after all. I’d given up even before I started.

After some time, one of the guides checked on me. He saw me holding the fishing rod, so he advised me to just lay it on the ice. That way, I’d be able to see if there was any movement. He waited with me and after a while, we saw the line move. He quickly pulled it up and handed me the fishing rod so I could start reeling in. And what do you know? I actually caught one. The guide unhooked the smelt and placed it in a bowl with water. He congratulated me on my catch and then checked on the other groups.

Well that wasn’t so bad, was it? Now that I knew what to do, I gained a bit of confidence. I cast the line and waited. Once I saw it moving, I reeled it back in, and this time, I caught two at once! I guess I don’t suck at this after all. I’m actually quite good!

That is, until it came time to unhook the fish. Holding the smelt between my fingers, I tried to pull it off the hook. The smelt squirmed at the touch, and unknowingly, I let out a scream.

Right. I’ve conveniently forgotten that I don’t like touching live fish. Somewhere between touching a squirmy little thing and imagining how much pain it was going through, my heart raced and my mind panicked. Noticing my struggle, a female guide came to check on me and helped me unhook the fish. Whew. Crisis averted. Somewhat.

I felt really conflicted at this point. Fishing was fun. It was like a game. But once you’ve caught the fish and see the living thing struggling? That’s a bit too much to take.

I spent the rest of the session fishing and by the end of it, I caught a total of four. Some people only caught one, so I guess I fared better than I thought I would. The guides collected all the fish we caught and deep-fried them as we waited. Ignorance really is bliss, because if I saw this part, I’d probably have trouble eating the fish.

After some time, one of the guides went around with a plate of smelt tempura and instructed us each to take two. I did as told and popped them in my mouth. Delicious. Just a minute ago I could hardly bear the thought of hurting another living being and yet I had no problem eating it once it had been cooked into food. Alas, I am only human.

So how was my experience overall? Despite overthinking every little thing, I actually had fun! I challenged myself to do something new and accomplished it. Well, except for the unhooking part. Did I enjoy ice fishing? Absolutely! Do I recommend it? Uh-huh. Would I do it again? Honestly, probably not. The fishing part was fun, but knowing that the living thing you caught would end up dying? Not really.

Hokkaido Ice Fishing Video

Remember when I said all this was for a video? Well, that video is part of my Winter in Hokkaido series on YouTube, and you can see the ice fishing bit at around 0:26. Hokkaido has a lot of winter attractions, so if you’re planning a trip, the series can give you ideas on things to do.

Tips for Travelers

• Dress appropriately. Temperatures can drop below zero in Hokkaido, so make sure you dress in warm layers. If you wear snow boots, you won’t have to change into the clunky fishing boots that they rent out on the activity.
• Listen to the guide. The staff at the ice fishing location are there to help you, so make sure to listen to their instructions carefully. They’ll show you how to use the tools and give you advice on where to fish.
• Don’t be afraid to ask for help. If you’re having trouble with something, don’t be afraid to ask for help. The staff are there to assist you, whether it’s with baiting the hook or unhooking the fish.
• Don’t be afraid to join solo. I wasn’t the only one in our group who was traveling solo and activities like
• There are several activity providers who run these experiences. Some of them half-day, while others are full-day tours. If you’re a beginner, I recommend booking a morning session with lunch included. You’ll be sitting in the snow for a long stretch of time so having a warm meal waiting for you at the end of it takes the fatigue away. Each activity provider has different packages, so be sure to research and compare before booking.

How to Book an Ice Fishing Activity

If you want to book the exact activity I did, it’s this one on VELTRA’s Japanese site. If you want to book on an English site, use Klook. They’re the same activity, just published in different languages depending on the OTA. The staff communicate in both English and Japanese, so language is not a problem.

As mentioned earlier, there are several companies that run similar activities. How many of these are available varies each year, so bookmark these pages so that you can compare different tours available.

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