Whenever autumn in Kyoto kicks in, you see lists of must-see temples and shrines in the ancient capital. Very few, if any at all, mention Otagi Nenbutsuji. Located away from the city center, this Buddhist temple boasts splendid fall colors, but its true highlight is the 1,200 stone statues adorning the temple grounds, each brimming with its own personality. It’s truly a must-see for people hunting hidden gems in Kyoto.
Date Visited: November 29, 2019
1,200 Rakan Statues
You’ll find Buddhist stone statues in temples across Japan. Oftentimes, skilled artisans breathe life into these religious figures that resemble the disciples of Buddha. One sweeping look at the statues in Otagi Nenbutsuji, however, will tell you one thing; the varying shapes and expressions clearly show that different people sculpted these works of art. These happen to be the temple’s pilgrims and patrons, amateurs who took up the opportunity to sculpt their own stone statue.
Otagi Nenbutsuji has had quite a number of misfortunes in the past, having been swept by the river in its first location, then falling into ruin in the second. The remaining structures of the temple have been reassembled in its current home, and it was only in the 1950s that the temple began installing its now well-loved rakan statues. A sculptor himself, then head monk Nishimura Kocho began inviting visitors to carve their own rakan statues under his guidance. The result is a whimsical mix—some have the classical look, others more abstract. And to the delight of anyone visiting the temple today, many are comical.
This 1981 video clip from NHK interviews people as they make their statues. It seems that some were hoping to leave something of themself in this world, while others were creating them to honor loved ones. Whatever their reasons were, it is clear that the people enjoyed making them. These statues have in turn benefited the temple by being one of the highlights that attract visitors.
I personally found viewing the statues to be very entertaining, so much so that I spent a good hour just looking at them. Below are some of my favorite statues.
Green with moss. 
I love the way the sunlight hits its joyous face. 
The one in the back grinning while looking up is a winner. 
Emo fringe, moss style. 
This one is flexing its flexibility. 
So much affinity with this one. 
Elegant. 
This looks like it would make a great drinking buddy.
One of the Best Places to Enjoy Autumn in Kyoto
Even among locals, Kyoto is known as one of the best places to enjoy the sight of autumn colors. With many gorgeous temples and shrines accesible from the city center, countless photo ops await the eager tourist. The problem is, everybody else is trying to do the same. More often than not, you’ll have to weave your way through a crowd before you get to take your photo.
Because it is farther away from the city center, fewer people visit Otagi Nenbutsuji. Visitors will have time and space to take in the calming scenery as well as get lost in taking photos. Temples and shrines also tend to look alike after you’ve seen a few, but Otagi Nenbutsuji is recognizably unique because of its expressive statues. If you want to avoid the crowds and take unique photos, the temple definitely won’t disappoint.
Optimal viewing dates: mid-November to early December
How to Get to Otagi Nenbutsuji
Otagi Nenbutsuji (愛宕念仏寺, おたぎ ねんぶつじ)
Business Hours: 8:00〜16:30
Entrance Fee: JPY 300
Official Website (English, Japanese)
From Arashiyama Station (JR San-in Line, Hankyu), take a bus heading to Kiyotaki (Kyoto buses #62, 72, 92, and 94) and get off at Otagi Dera Mae. The bus fare costs around ¥230 and takes 20 minutes.
Alternatively, you can take a cab from the same station. The cab fare will cost around ¥1,000-¥1,500 and will take around 12 minutes.
Nearby Attractions
Otagi Nenbutsuji is located in the Arashiyama area of Kyoto. You can visit the temple along with Arashiyama Bamboo Forest, Mikami Hair Shrine, Tenryu-ji and Togetsukuyo Bridge.
Some activities you can pair this with are yakatabune river boating, riding the Sagano Romantic Train, and touring the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest on a rickshaw ride.
